DeckSight

A drop-in low power OLED display upgrade for LCD model Steam Decks

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Jan 20, 2025

Project update 4 of 4

Installation Overview

by Shade Technik

Hi Everyone,

In this update, I’d like to give you an overview of the DeckSight installation process. I’ve been reading comments online and I think some concerns stem from previous similar products that weren’t as widely adopted. So, first, I’ll explain the installation process, then touch on some reasoning behind it and the future of DeckSight. More in-depth instructions will be available on shadetechnik.com, but for now, this is just to help you understand the process.


Installation Steps:

  1. Download and install the custom BIOS from shadetechnik.com.
  2. Remove the back cover.
  3. Disconnect the battery.
  4. Remove the motherboard shroud and motherboard.
  5. Detach the stock FPC from the LCD.
  6. Remove the stock LCD and clean the adhesive.
  7. Apply new adhesive strips and install DeckSight OLED. (See below).
  8. Connect the new FPC to DeckSight. (See below).
  9. Reassemble by reversing the process: install the motherboard, shroud, reconnect the battery, and install the back cover.
  10. Optional: Install the ICC profile for color calibration.

The whole process should take about 30 minutes to an hour. Now, I’ll explain why we do it in this order and provide some tips.


Understanding the BIOS Update

The web pages aren’t published yet, but you’ll have the option to download either an automatic install script or the BIOS file for manual installation. Realistically, manual installation isn’t much harder than using the automated script – just a few terminal commands.

Why Install the BIOS First?

You need to install the BIOS first because DeckSight requires a custom BIOS to work. Without it, you’ll just have a black screen. Similarly, the stock LCD will not display an image with the DeckSight BIOS. The reason for this is that DeckSight’s initialization sequence is slightly different from the stock LCD. While the differences are small, they are enough to make them incompatible.

It’s a good idea to connect an external monitor via USB-C. This isn’t absolutely necessary, but it helps you see when the Steam Deck finishes rebooting. I’ve noticed that some Steam Decks behave differently with the power LED, so using the external monitor ensures you can see what’s happening.

Using an external monitor, it will be clear when the Deck reboots. The Deck always defaults to using the external monitor on startup, so even if you forget to install the BIOS first, the monitor will help you complete the BIOS installation. If Valve pushes a BIOS update and DeckSight stops working, you can use the external monitor to reinstall the DeckSight BIOS or update it to the new version.

We may add an option to block automatic BIOS updates in the install script. This won’t stop a manual install but will prevent Valve from updating the BIOS automatically, which can be an inconvenience for DeckSight. Valve hasn’t pushed an updated BIOS since DeckSight’s development began, but we remain prepared just in case. If an update does happen, we can patch it quickly – likely within 10 minutes. The chances of Valve making a change that breaks our patching tools are minimal, since our patching is focused on the display section, and Valve’s future BIOS will still assume the stock screen is in place.


Removing the Back Cover, Motherboard, etc.

This part is pretty standard. There are plenty of good tutorials with pictures online. A couple of things worth mentioning:


Removing the Stock LCD and Cleaning the Adhesive

This step can be tricky, as the stock LCD is held in with adhesive strips. Here’s the process to make it easier:

  1. Warm up the edges of the display using a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive.
  2. Use a suction cup and plastic pry tool (avoid metal tools) to carefully release the display after it’s been softened.

The Steam Deck shell is plastic, so be careful not to overheat it. Worst case scenario: if the stock LCD breaks, you’ll need to clean out the pieces. If that happens, don’t worry – you’re already in the process of installing a new screen. Just clean up the adhesive residue with some alcohol and a plastic pry tool before placing the new adhesive strips. Once the stock LCD is removed, reinstalling DeckSight is much simpler.


Installing DeckSight and Its New FPC

The reason this says “see below” is because the process is slightly different than previously described. Initially, DeckSight’s FPC connector didn’t align with the hole in the midframe. The original custom FPC curved around to exit the hole in the same place as the stock FPC. In that design, you would connect the FPC to DeckSight first, then route it through the hole before placing the screen onto the adhesive. If the FPC ever got damaged, the DeckSight OLED would need to be removed to replace it.

We’re testing a new design, different from the one shown on the Crowd Supply page. The new FPC cable looks more like the stock FPC, and the connector on the back of the DeckSight OLED now lines up with the hole in the Steam Deck midframe. This new design resolves the issue, and we’ll finalize testing before DeckSight ships. Assuming there are no issues, this will be the new setup.


The ICC Profile

DeckSight can display a wider range of colors than a typical display, which can make solid colors in the desktop or Steam UI appear bolder. Some people may prefer this effect, but personally, I found it a bit too much. Rather than adjusting the gamma registers on the OLED itself (which would limit future flexibility), we’ve opted to handle this with an ICC profile.

The ICC profile is easy to install:

  1. Go to Desktop → Settings → Color Management.
  2. Import the DeckSight ICC profile and set it as the default.

Now is the best time to purchase DeckSight, as it is available at campaign pricing with free shipping in the US. If you haven’t backed it yet, now’s the time to do so!


Kind Regards,
Shade Technik


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